
I designed JB’s Junior Hydraulic Shaft Extractor for the hobbyist who only pulls a few shafts a month. You can easily apply twice the amount of force with JB’s Junior Shaft Extractor versus the screw type puller without breaking a sweat. You will rapidly develop a sense of touch and feel from the resistance in the four ton hydraulic jack to know exactly when you have applied just the right amount of pressure.
Graphite shaft-extracting does not get any easier or more effortless than this!
Designed and constructed for the
Hobbyist Clubmaker
(at a very competitive price!)
Shipping weight 15 pounds
Heavy welded 3/8 steel construction
3 1/2 inch rubber shaft clamp (replaceable)
Easily used in either the vertical or horizontal position
Removes steel and graphic shafts up to .440 diameter tips
The T-handle makes the 15 pound weight easily transportable
Includes a slotted shim that accommodates shafts from .335 to .370
Clamping pressure is applied with a 6 inch handle on the acme screw
Systematic instructions are included and phone support is available after the sale within the U.S.
If you pull more than just a few shafts a month, I highly recommend that you take a look at my Pro Model.


Please view the demo video above.
Instructions for the Shaft Extractor Jr. Model
- If the club has a ferrule, you must remove it. The easiest way to accomplish this is to heat the ferrule with a heat source for 10 to 15 seconds. The heat will soften the plastic, and then you can cut the ferrule off with a utility knife. Use caution: do not cut into a graphite shaft.
- With the extractor in either the vertical or the horizontal position, install the rubber clamp on the shaft and insert the club into the slot in the extractor head. The hosel of the club should be resting against the slotted shim on the head of the extractor. The slotted shim is the same width as the slot in the head. By locating the shaft into the U portion of the slot, you will have more than 180 degrees of contact with the base of the hosel. This one slot size accommodates shafts with diameters from .335 to .370. By using the slotted shim, you also prevent wear on the forks of the head.
- Locate the rubber clamp in the center of the clamp. Close the clamp by turning the T-handle on the acme screw. If you have slippage, just give the clamp a ¼ turn. If you experience slippage, it is probably because the shaft and/or the rubber clamp absorbed oil (from the oil in your hands/skin). If this happens, I have good results by putting a wrap around the shaft using notebook paper or a brown paper grocery bag.
- With the head of the extractor in the down position, the hosel resting against the slot in the shim, the slot in the head, and the clamp tightened, use the handle of the jack and pump it two to three times. This will extend the ram of the jack about 1/4” inch, which will apply several hundred pounds of pushing force to the head. Any additional jacking at this point will cause slippage. Each pump of the jacks applies over 1,000 pounds of force and something has to give.
- Now use the heat source of your choice (I prefer the pencil flame butane torch) and apply heat to the head of the club. When the epoxy reaches about 250 degrees, the epoxy bond will break. Apply a few pumps on the jack handle. This should push the head forward and you can now remove the head with your gloved hand or jack the head the rest of the way off.
- You lower the ram by turning the valve on the front of the jack about ½ turn and applying downward force with you hand.
- The function of the T handle is to support the extractor in the horizontal position and for transporting the extractor.
- Periodically, the acme screw of the T handle needs lubrication. You can use any type of wheel bearing grease.
Please go to the
"Testimonial's" page and check out what some customers had to say
about J.B's Jr. Hydraulic Extractor.
Frequently Asked Questions